The train had just left Kimna, the last stop before Narvik. It was a mid-September morning, the snow had just begun to fall from a bleak, gray sky. From the train one saw nothing but a stretch of barren Arctic tundra. I felt more depressed than at any time since I had left home three months ago. In the past few days I had been completely frustrated in my attempts to visit with the Nomad Lapps, and now that I was leaving the country I had to abandon any hope of doing so.